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Back from Japan a couple of days ago. Before I went I was wondering what I would do. I really had no ideas other than a day tour out to the area around Mt. Fuji for a close-up look. My sister-in-law had found and forwarded information on a bus tour with English-speaking guides — the sort of thing you sign up for at your hotel, but I could come aboard at their last stop in the city. So I brought plenty of books to read and was expecting to spend a lot of time sitting around the house.

Well …

At the spot (TCAT, if you know Tokyo) where my brother met me he found the Handy Tokyo Map and Handy Tokyo Guide, and I found some interesting looking stuff. And my sister-in-law had a couple of suggestions. My brother suggested how to get where I wanted on the subway and train system each day. And I never took the Fuji tour because it was cloudy and rainy most of the time I was there.

Thursday, my first day, I went to Akihabara, where the electronics stores are concentrated, and bought a digital camera with a lot more bells and whistles than I need (e.g., smile detector!). Then I walked around the area and nearby Ochanomizu, looking at some of the spots in the Tokyo Guide. Got lunch in a restaurant which featured little clams in its miso soup — by pointing at the picture in the menu. S-i-l's mother joined us for dinner.

Friday — they said my other brother and my nephew had both enjoyed the Edo-Tokyo Museum which displays models and artifacts from when the shoguns made it their capital and then shows how the city was modernized after the emperors resumed power and made it their capital with the name Tokyo (and how it was destroyed by the 1923 earthquake and the 1945 firebombing). After that I planned to see the Tokyo National Museum. But I spent almost five hours in the Edo-Tokyo Museum and that was enough time on my feet. I had lunch at the adjacent station and went "home." Dinner at a neighborhood restaurant.

Saturday I decided to see the Nihombashi region. There was a model in the museum showing how it looked in the early 1600's, and I wanted to compare. Nowadays it's a bustling commercial district. Then I would go to Shinagawa, where the Guide said you can see the area of the first of the 53 stages (rest stops) on the ancient route from Edo to Kyoto (the Tokaido). My brother suggested that while I was in Nihombashi if I had time I might like to take a peek inside the Mitsukoshi department store. I went in, found Christmas presents (2010 diaries/planners) in the book department for bro, s-i-l, and nephew, pictures for my wall scrolls, and an amazing exhibit of traditional crafts — I concentrated on the wooden items. On to Shinagawa. It was maybe a mile from the main station to the Tokaido stage area, Shinagawa Shuku (or Syuku, as the Guide spells it). I was disappointed that apparently the actual building travelers would have used 400 years ago wasn't there, but the street was still there — a typically narrow street lined with shops — buildings two or three stories tall. So I got to walk a portion of the historic route. Almost back to the station, I stopped for lunch at a place where there is a vending machine. You put your money in and press the button for your selection, and you get a ticket for it which you present at the counter. Dinner was at my s-i-l' brother's little apartment. He's a good cook.

Sunday — day of rest. Brother showed me a Buddhist temple he had discovered about a half mile from their home. Joined s-i-l for a 30th anniversary Mass at the Gregorian Institute, which is one place where she teaches organ. Dinner in another neighborhood restaurant.

Monday — s-i-l had pulled up stuff from the internet about the Kabuki performances. I went for the matinee, which lasted, with three intermissions, from 11:00 a.m. to after 3:00 p.m. Fortunately they have earphones for rent which give English explanations and large chunks of the dialogue. There were three major stories, and a snippet which began with the debut of the three year old son of one of the actors. At the outset of that piece, the actors took turns noting the debut. The last to speak said that he was very pleased to be part of it because the boy's great grandfather had been very kind and helpful to him when he began his acting career. Another machine ticket lunch, and dinner prepared by s-i-l, who is also a very good cook.

Tuesday s-i-l pointed out that the Tokyo National Museum (the one I didn't have time for on Friday) had a special exhibition of artworks from the imperial collections, also divided into sections from when they were in Kyoto and since they moved to Tokyo. Lots of screens and painted hanging scrolls — also vases and other furnishings from the Tokyo period — beautiful and fascinating things. Again I spent hours walking through it and through the nearby regular display. In the evening I took them to a neighborhood restaurant for dinner.

Wednesday, packed and took the train to the airport. Good flights (same on the way over).

So it was a great visit — no days sitting around the house; and except Sunday and Monday I spent about five hours on my feet each day and arrived "home" pretty footsore. Thanks to my brother's advice I did fine on the subway and train system. And I enjoyed everything I saw. Looking forward to my next visit.